This section is for for those who want to take care
of their own power equipment. I would suggest
reviewing the section on SAFETY before continuing. Power Equipment
causes far to many injuries and even deaths every
year and a few precautions prior to using or
repairing your equipment shouldn't be overlooked.
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DESIGNER MOTOR FUEL:
Generally this is what is known as gas. Those of us
who grew up with "Muscle Cars" once used real gas.
What we buy at the pump today in no way resembles it,
except it still runs engines, or tries to. Todays
motor fuel is loaded with ingredients only a chemist
can pronounce, least wise understand it's function.
The whole purpose is to enhance cleaner exhaust
emissions, not to enhance engine performance. The
"Shelf" life of the stuff is non existent, unless you
consider 30 days much of a life. It may run engines
when it's older but starting a cold engine will begin
to become progressively difficult. Old fuel (over 30
days young) will begin coating the insides of the
carb with a shellac type goo, valve stems can become
stuck to the valve guides, poor combustion will cause
excessive deposits in the combustion chamber and
exhaust ports will clog up. Not a pretty sight.
Depending on the original quality of the fuel, after
two or three months it may not run anything.
Over half the problems we see in the repair shop are
fuel related, and a note for those with equipment
still under warranty. Fuel related failures ARE
NOT WARRANTABLE. What YOU put in the
equipment (fuel, oil) is YOUR RESPONSIBILITY
not the manufacturer or the business you bought it
from.
Avoiding old gas is simple. Don't buy more than you
will use in thirty days. If the fuel in your re-fill
can is approaching that time, poor it in your car
where it can be used up before doing damage. If you
know the equipment is going to set for an extended
period, such as during the winter, put a fuel
stablizer in a full fuel tank and run the engine for
a few minutes to allow the stablizer to reach all
parts of the fuel system. After the extended
storage, the fuel should be drained and disposed in a
proper manner and then refill the tank with fresh
fuel. The old gas would have been difficult to start
as before, but having had the stablizer in it will
prevent the coating and shellacing from happening.
Using quality fuel is more important today than ever. Brand quality will vary from one area to another but normally, choosing a major brand from a busy station will provide you with the freshest, best quaility fuel. Most 4 cycle engines recommend 87 or 89 octane and 2 cycles will advise 89 to 92 octane. Remember, the manufacturers recommendation is the minimum. I advise people to use 92 octane for all outdoor power equipment. Quality control at the refinery is usually tighter on the premium fuel providing for fewer combustion deposits and more reliable performance. Using a major brand, high octane fuel from a busy station will give you better all around performance with less chance of problems.
OIL:
Two Cycle Oil;
For many years folks have got away with using 4 cycle
oil to mix with fuel for their 2 cycle engines.
Indeed, that was what many manufacturers recommended.
Not anymore. The same was true regarding the use of 2
cycle boat oil in 2 cycle outdoor power equipment.
Unless you want to use your power equipment as an
anchor for your boat, don't do it. 2 cycle outdoor
power equipment today is a different animal. Twenty
years ago a high revving 2 cycle would have turned
9,000 RPM, most much less. Today some are turning
16,000 RPM with the average around 10,000 to 14,000
RPM. Boat oil is made for relatively slow revving,
cool running water cooled engines. Two cycle oudoor
power equipment engines are air cooled and run much
hotter. Boat 2 cycle or 4 cycle oil will cook a chain
saw or line trimmer in a hurry. Todays 2 cycle air
cooled power equipment requires oil made for them.
Use one of the oils made for one of the "quality" 2
cycle power equipment engine manufacturers. Sure,
it'll cost more but, pay me now or.........!
Mixing fuel/oil ratios for 2
cycles;
This is real important also. Most 2 cycle engines
today are advised to have the fuel/oil ratio mixed at
either 40 to 1 or more likely 50 to 1. In other
words, 50 parts of fuel to 1 part oil. One gallon of
fuel is 128 fluid ozs. Divide that by 50 and you come
up with 2.56 fluid ozs of oil needed to mix with that
1 gallon of fuel. Just 2.5 ozs of oil, that's not
much but it's critical to get it as accurate as
possible. Never try to mix fuel/oil ratio's in the
equipments fuel tank. You're not likely to get it
right.
Todays equipment has little if any outward
ajustability to compensate for fuel or air flow
variables. This is so the engines can meet the new
emission laws and not need to be recertified every
year. If the carbs had the same easily adjustable and
tamperable jet screws of the past the feds wouldn't
allow the engines to be sold.
Oil added to fuel changes the fuels viscosity. This
is the pour or flow rate. The change is minor but
never the less it changes. The pre-set carb jets are
designed to allow a precise amount of fuel/oil mix to
pass into the engine. Not mixing the fuel/oil ratio
correctly alters that fuel flow due to the viscosity
change. Either way, serious engine damage can occur
if the mix is too far off. It also alters the
emission outputs. Thus, failure to mix the proper
fuel/oil ratio, technically and legally, becomes a
violation of federal emission laws. It's unlikey, at
least in the near future, that you will be caught or
fined but it's possible. Besides, if engine damage
occurs due to improper lubrication, it won't be
covered by warranty. Need a boat anchor?
4 CYCLE OIL;
This is fairly easy. If you still have your owners
manual, I'm sure you do, uh ohh, check it for any
variables. Generally 4 cycles are good to go with a
quality automotive 30w oil. For cold climates when
the outside temps drop below freezing during the time
of use, change the oil to a 5w-30 or 10w-30. When it
warms back up change back to straight 30w. A single
viscosity oil is best whenever possible for power
equipment due to being air cooled and the resulting
higher operating temps. In a pinch, the
multi-viscosity oils are ok when it's hot, but change
it out as soon as possible before the oil "breaks
down" under the hot running conditions. As with fuel,
sticking with a major brand is the safest choice for
quality. My favorite starts with a "V", but I'm not
here to try to sell you something.
BRIGGS AND STRATTON LAWN
MOWERS;
Before moving on, allow me to go off on a bit of a
tangent. When you head off to your local shop to get
a part for your "mower", say a tire, control cable or
blade, the counter person will ask a couple of
questions. You know, make, model and year. If you
say, "it's a Briggs and Stratton mower and it's just
like the one some guy just left here with", well,
you're going to get laughed at, birdied, or at the
least have an annoyed counter person. Friends, Briggs
and Stratton is far and away the largest selling
small engine made and is found in dozens of
variations and sizes world wide. But they don't make
the equipment they power, period. When buying parts
for your equipment or the engine powering it, get all
the numbers and names you can find, look hard, some
equipment makers don't seem to be real proud of their
name and don't make finding this important info easy.
That's why many people think their mower is made by
Briggs, they don't hide their name. You may have some
difficulty finding the numbers needed for parts but
not the name. Most engine manufacturers do display
their name very well. It's a good idea when your
equipment is new, to write down all this info where
you won't lose it, like, an owners manual. oops.
After a few years crud and debris may obscure this
info making it harder to find. Do this for both the
engine and equipment, even for Honda where often the
equipment and engine are both made by Honda. Many
times the Honda equipment numbers are all you need
for them but sometimes having the engine numbers when
getting engine parts may come into play when engine
changes occur but equipment changes haven't. Honda
engines are found on a lot of equipment they didn't
make also.
BASIC MAINTENANCE
Some equipment will have different schedules, if you
have your owners manual, check for any variations.
Oil Changes;
A couple of additional notes. If your engine has a
dipstick to measure the oil, there are two ways of
doing it, depending on the engine. On American made
engines the dipstick is placed in the screwed in
position to obtain the correct oil level. On Japanese
engines the dipstick is just set down but not screwed
in. This goes for Japanese made engines sold as
American engines such as the Briggs twin cylinder
VanGuards. Engines without a dipstick fill hole will
have a fill hole with cap only, about an inch or so
from the bottom of the block. This type will be
filled to the top of the hole. Be careful to remove
all dirt and crud build up surrounding the
fill/dipstick hole prior to removing the cap. Dirt
falling in to the engine will act like sandpaper on
the engine and cause pre-mature wear and failure.
Spark Plugs;
Air Filters;
Filters come in two basic types. Paper cartridge much like you may be familiar with in your car and oiled foam. Some paper cartridges have a foam pre-filter, these usually are not oiled because over oiling can cause oil transfer to the paper filter and destroy it. When a paper filter gets dirty it gets replaced. Foam filters, if not deteriorated, can be washed in hot soapy water, re-oiled with 30 wt. motor oil and re-installed.
New equipment should have it's first oil change
inside the first 5 hours of running time. If you only
run your equipment a half hour per week, change the
oil after a month on a new unit. New engines will
have a lot of initial break-in contaminants and needs
to be replaced early. No special break-in oil is
needed, or advised, use the regular good quality oil
you plan to continue to use. After that, change the
oil every 25 hours of running time or once a year. If
your equipment is used in very dusty conditions
change the oil more often. Engines with an oil filter
usually need less frequent oil changes in terms of
hours used, check your manual or ask your dealer. If
you use your engine in sub-freezing conditions in the
winter you need to replace the 30 weight oil
(standard for normal conditions) with a 5W 30 or
10W 30. Remember to return to the straight 30 weight
when it warms up.
Three things to remember before changing the oil.
1. Start the engine and let it warm up, 5 minutes
should do it.
2. Remove the spark plug.
3. Do not turn a 4 cycle engine up-side down. When
getting at the drain plug on a mower, tip the mower
no more than 90 degrees and do so with the empty
spark plug hole pointing up. You may want to place a
piece of plastic (sandwich wrap) under the fuel cap
to prevent dribble. Don't forget to remove it when
done.
Spark plugs are cheap. Replace them when you change
the oil. If you have a two cycle where oil changes
aren't needed, replace the plug when you clean or
replace the air filter. Plug gap and type ARE
important. Check your owners manual for correct type
and gap. All new engines since 1995 have been
required to meet emission regulations and tampering
with emission controls is illegal. Spark plugs are
part of the emission package. Every new engine
regardless of the equipment it powers, comes with an
owners manual which states the emission / maintenance
requirements and the plug type and gap. It's not
likely in the near future that the consumer will be
cited and charged with emission tampering, but the
law does exist.
Stuff a pillow in your face and see how easy it is to breath. I see a lot of equipment that has excess combustion chamber carbon build up and prematurely fouled spark plugs because the user hasn't serviced the air filter. What they've done is stuck a pillow in front of the carb and expected the engine to perform flawlessly. Duh! Mowers, tillers and other lawn and garden equipment live right next to the ground and it's an extremley dirty environment. Check the air filters condition every couple tanks of gas until you get a good idea how long you can go between air filter servicing. If you're mowing a lush green lawn the filter will probably be good until it's time to change the oil. On the other hand, a roto-tiller may need it's air filter serviced in less than an hour.
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